Webb’s Grainworks Gives Me Hope
It seems there is a serious void when it comes to what goes into opening a restaurant. It’s not a lack of new spaces, mind you - plenty of those opening every day. No, I am referring to the void of creativity, craftsmanship, execution, and - ultimately and most crucially - soul. The legend (and one of my heroes), Marco Pierre White, once said - and I am paraphrasing a bit here - that the most important aspect of a restaurant is how it feels. More and more, I find myself agreeing with this, and let me say, the recently-opened Webb’s Grainworks in Aliso Viejo feels rather fantastic.
I can’t tell you how much Webb’s cost to build - though I assume it’s a rather big sum. What I do know is that I’ve been to countless other expensive places where all the design features in the world just felt vapid, and sterile. Webb’s feels endearing, and vulnerable - like a young boy asking a girl to dance. The amount that went into the building doesn’t command your admiration - the intention does.
Everything at Webb’s is purpose-built. The food, the drinks, the atmosphere - even parts of everyday service, like limiting guest’s ability pack the bar, forcing staff to serve a crowd two or even three rows deep. They want every person who comes through their door to have an experience, not just an expense.
The food is charming, elevated fair inspired from all around the globe, and scratches every itch. From Korean-style wings, to burgers. BLTs to Musubi - there is something for everyone, lunch, dinner, or weekend brunch. The cocktails - all designed around Webb’s spirits offerings - are well crafted, well balanced, and most importantly these days, well priced. The beers also hit every note and are ever-evolving; benefits of having everything in-house.
The spirits are what you expect for a place that has just dipped its toe in the pond - the Whisky is barreled and waiting with two initial offerings ready until the first barrels are good to go, the Gin and Vodka do their jobs well, but most shockingly is the Awamori which is both a welcome surprise to the menu, and a delicious one. This Japanese spirit is unlike anything most average American palates have experienced. In my opinion it is a must-try, even if it’s not for everyone.
Since it’s opening, it’s been raucous to say the least - New Year’s Eve celebrations with Common Sense performing live and around a thousand people in attendance, to seemingly endless crowds each and every night. It also has a strong industry following, making Monday and Tuesday nights a cavalcade of friends from kitchens and bars alike enjoying a day off - always a good sign for a restaurant or bar.
Look, no place is perfect, but I do know that Webb’s Grainworks is a great spot to pull up a chair, order some food and drinks, and complain about those other spots while enjoying this one. The emotion behind it puts it in an entirely different category from most new businesses - and many long-standing ones as well. It’s not trying to be a trend-setter, but it is setting a trend I hope continues for many openings to come.